Figure 59: My beat-up block plane. I could do with a nicer one for such a precise task, but this one works half decent...and yes the blade was retracted before I placed it sole-down in the photo
Figure 60: The glorious and holy power-shot stapler. Best design for a hand stapler ever. Shut up if you disagree.
One thing that's come back to bite me is the fact that I didn't bevel the molds. It's not a massive deal since the molds are completely removed at the end anyway, but it means I'm always stapling into a corner of the mold rather than nice n flat on the face. On one side of the boat I realized I was stapling into the wrong corner too (woops) and it caused some unfairness in the planking. Luckily I'm above the turn of the bilge and I was able to simply remove the offending staples and re-staple the planks in the correct spot. Not the best solution, but most of my mistake will be hidden by the rub rail or by paint in the finished boat.
Here's a few pics of my simple method for holding the planking together between molds as the glue dries -- low-tack painter's masking tape! When you stretch it over the current strip and stick it to the strips below, it holds every bit as well as a spring clamp. Butt joins are treated with tape, plus a clamp to draw the ends of the planks in-line with each other (Figure 61). Some spots it isn't needed but wherever the plank twists (toward bow and stern especially) it's hard to get the strips to line up without light clamping pressure
Figure 61: Butt join treatement (glue is scraped away afterward too)
Figure 62: Current progress port-side and bow
Figure 63: Current progress, port-side toward the stern.
I can't explain how pleased I am that the hull planking is going on. I can finally see the shape of the hull and it looks absolutely fantastic. Super motivating on such a long-term project. Next post should be more of the same. I'll try to get some better pics that show the shape the way I see it when I look at it -- always hard to capture on a camera.