Post XXXV - Transom Adjustment, then Scupper Time!

The transom needed a small adjustment. I kind of screwed up way back when I was rabbeting the damn thing (see back posts). Plans call for it to protrude up above the sheer line by 3/8" or so but the rabbet looked dumb there. I also wanted to put a steam-bent cap piece on it so that it has a little lip, rather than just having the plain transom board's edge. This also looked stupid with the messed-up rabbet and there was no good way to add a filler piece to hide my mistakes. 

It's hard to describe, but it just wasn't going to work the way it was and the best solution I could come up with was to trim the protruding piece of transom. Not too difficult really -- I made a template on bristol board from the plans, marked inside and out on the transom, then used the same procedure I've described here many times: plane to the line both sides, hash it out in the middle, then plane away the ridge until the hashes disappear. 

Final height of the transom looks perfectly fine and I can definitely hide the remaining rabbet screwup with a blob of filleting blend once the cap piece is in place. Not the most elegant solution but it will look fine.  

Figure 157: Adjusted transom height

I was all excited to cut the scuppers for some reason. It's a big part of the look in these cedar FRP boats I find. It's also nice to be doing some finish work at last.  First thing of course was to make a template for a 3/8" x 4" scupper. Thank GOD I decided to use the radius of my drum sander bit as the corner radius rather than something smaller. If I had done my rough cuts with a smaller radius it would have been horribly difficult to finish this task. 

There is 1 scupper at the aft knee joint, 5 between the aft seat and the first set of oarlocks, then a couple forward of the mid seat to the forward oarlocks, then three more forward of the fore seat. My screw points are on 6" spacings, so the scuppers were centred between that, leaving a 2" contact patch for glue with a screw in the middle. 

Figure 158 - Scupper template

Figure 159: Marked them out on the inner gunwales

This is where the whole thing got a little grueling. I realized quickly that maneuvering a 20' stick through the bandsaw (ie to rip-cut the scuppers) was a no-go. The only solution was to whack the things out with a chisel. For jobs like this it's *always* best to use a series of cross cuts. The bandsaw is fine for this, but you could easily do it with a handsaw if you cared to. Key is to cut only to the line and not a fraction of an inch farther. Trust me, it will save a lot of work later if you take the 2 extra seconds to be exact on each cut

Figure 160: Careful crosscuts

Figure 161: Ready for the ol' chisel.

Once the crosscuts are done, it's time to thwack out the little wood nuggets with the chisel. Easiest way I find is to just take your dullest chisel and stick it in one of the saw cuts. Hammer it in with a mallet and give it a good twist. the nuggets will break away at their base (or close to it). Continue breaking away all the nuggets in the scupper and come back afterward with a sharp chisel to clean things up. If you made the cuts carefully, you can continue removing wood until the effects of the saw *aaaalllllmost* diappear. Then you're close enough for a final sanding. 

Figure 162: Roughed-out and ready for the drum sander.

I suspect I'll have time in the next week to complete the sanding. Will edit in a pic of that when I find a few minutes.

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