SURFACE PREP -- I put that in caps because it's super important for marine paint. First: the entire hull needs to be sanded or at least roughened with sandpaper. Not sure exactly what is recommended, but I went with 100 grit here. Worked fine for me. Second - all dust needs to be removed and then the whole thing should be wiped clean of residue using acetone or 99% isopropyl alcohol (I use the former). If you take these steps you can go directly onto the epoxy with no primer. If you fail to take these steps, the finish is virtually guaranteed to peel.
Figure 217: Taped gunwales and sanded, acetone-wiped hull surface
The only (and biggest) problem with Easypoxy is that their stock colours are 90% horrible. The only one that appealed to me at all (apart from black & white) was the colour I bought for my canoe years ago -- electric blue! The name belies the darkness of blue when cured; it's actually pretty attractive as a hull colour if you favour darker hulls as I do.
A friend told me awhile back that Easypoxy is best applied dry-to-whet. Brush from un-painted areas into painted ones. The bristles lift gradually out of wet paint if you brush this way, and it allows the paint to lie flat again and retain the glossiness. Going the opposite way takes chunks out of the wet areas that don't fill in as readily. I use this technique every time I paint with Easypoxy (or other gloss paint) and it works great.
I typically apply by loading the brush, then wiping only one side on the edge of my container. I paint using the wiped side and the glossy paint oozes onto the boat surface through the bristles at a more-or-less steady rate.
Figure 218: The firs blobs of paint on the port bow!
The other thing I like about Easypoxy is that it beads nicely and, except for inside corners like the hull-gunwale joint, you can draw up to a line with very little effort. I met the graphite-epoxy waterline without the need for tape.
Overall, the experience was about equal to my other experiences with the brand. A nice, glossy coat that flattens almost immediately and then tacks up within an hour. I'll apply the second coat tomorrow night. It's best to do this after it dries but before the paint reaches full-cure (7 days) if you want the coats to bond chemically to one another.
Figure 219: Starboard side all painted up.
Figure 220: Portside bow all painted up
Figure 221: Aft starboard side, and transom painted up to the transom cap piece.