Post XLIX -- Rubstrip, hardware, trailer. DONE!

Here's a quick overview of the trim pieces I added after final assembly. First thing was a rub-strip along the outside of the stem and keel. These are high-wear areas and a rub-strip is the best way to prevent damage to the fragile fiberglass + epoxy moisture barrier. I decided to glue this on rather than screw it (for waterproofness), figuring I could just sand it and replace sections as needed when it wears. The strip is unfinished white oak, 1/4" thick and it runs the entire length of the keel.

Figure 251: Innovative means of clamping the stem strip

For hardware, I added a stainless loop at the waterline for towing and hauling on to the trailer, and then added bow/stern cleats for tying up to the dock. I didn't go for anything too fancy here -- they are just standard SS bits from the local boat supply shop. 

Figure 252: Waterline haul loop (probably oversize)

Figure 253: Waterline haul loop backing plate and block.

Figure 254: Foredeck cleat (larger)

Figure 255: Aft cleats (smaller)

I added a protective coat to my oars (4 of them actually) with the same epifanes varnish used elsewhere on the boat. This gave them a nice protective shell. My plan is to re-varnish these at least once a year until I get a nice invincible coat built up. Before Varnishing, I also added some cross-grain blade ends to my culler oars using some leftover white oak. The spruce on these oars is far too delicate to be left unprotected, and it looks nice. 

Figure 256: Oars with their 1st coat of varnish

Figure 257: Oar ends for protection

The trailer construction was a bit of a saga. I went and found an old flat-deck trailer in my buddy's barn and paid him $300 for it. All in, the damn thing probably cost me as much as a new trailer to fix up. I had to:

  • transport it home on top of another trailer
  • Cut every single bolt because they were rusted so bad. 
  • Strip it to the frame & wire brush every square inch to remove rust
  • Paint the entire frame a lovely tremclad red, 2 coats. 
  • re-do bearings + add bearing buddy grease fittings
  • redo decking with some leftover cedar planks
  • Add a center bunk to accommodate the keel and bear most of the weight
  • Add bilge bunks to cradle the hull in an upright position
  • add a winch post at the front
  • replace lights & wiring
  • get it all inspected
In the end, my 'cheap' trailer looks pretty cool and works well enough until I can save up for a proper rig. 

Figure 258: Trailer as it was when I got it inspected 

Figure 259: Trailer with the boat on top just before I built the bilge bunks.

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